T come Trieste

 Ci si rilegge a quanto pare. Si lo so qualcuno mi dava già per spacciata e invece ci ha pensato la brava Eloisa alias Aiuolik a scrollarmi dal mio placido (e latitante) torpore per ricordarmi l’Abbecedario Culinario  a cui avevo aderito tempo fa, e per chi ancora non lo sapesse, questo simpatico abbecedario partì proprio dalla sua Trattoria Muvara .

In tutto questo tempo è successo di tutto e di più, non mi basterebbero cento post per aggiornarvi, ‘che conosco i miei polli, siate sinceri, voi siete curiosi non tentate di negare che si vede da qua:-P però si da il caso che oggi io debba assolvere al mio compitino e debba dedicare questo spicchio di tempo per parlarvi del mio incontro virtuale con Trieste.

–Buffo- ho pensato quando tra tante città in lista e delle quali potrei, o meglio, avrei potuto, raccontarvi e regalarvi qualche immagine, che mi sia toccata in sorte proprio una delle poche città in cui non sono ancora stata, però secondo me è un segno del destino e io a Trieste ci devo proprio andare, solo che ancora non so quando ecco. Data la mia totale ignoranza sulle abitudini cucinesche di questa città carsica, ho dovuto fare una full immersion virtuale andando a scovare qualunque informazione avrebbe potuto aiutarmi nell’impresa. Avete presente quando arriva il giorno prima della ripresa della scuola dopo aver passato tutta l’estate a fare qualunque cosa che non includesse i compiti delle vacanze? Ecco no dico, avete presente lo sgomento poco prima che il terrore disegni quell’espressione imbecille sulla faccia che non fa presagire niente di buono? Ecco, più o meno è andata così:-) Pian piano che quel breve intervallo di tempo si riduce sempre di più si insinua il dubbio che il nostro indisciplinato studente possa fare in un solo giorno quello che ha accuratamente evitato per tutta l’estate, ma poi si sa, fare i post è come andare in bicicletta basta il coraggio della prima pedalata e si può ripartire e non è manco detto che si debba cadere per forza no? 

La prima cosa che mi è venuta in mente di Trieste è stato lo strucolo che poi sarebbe una versione carsica dello strudel, e per il resto mi sono affidata ai preziosi suggerimenti di amici, alle pagine di qualche trattoria triestina, e ovviamente alla rete (1, 2, 3, 4, 5678  nell’ultimo link le ricette sono addirittura in un delizioso dialetto!!!) Ovviamente siete caldamente invitati a correggere inesattezze e strafalcioni 

Patate in tecia

1 grossa cipolla rossa
5 patate
Olio evo
½ bicchiere di brodo vegetale
Sale
Pepe

Lessare le patate con la buccia in abbondante acqua. Una volta cotte pelarle e schiacciarle grossolanamente con una forchetta. Affettare sottilmente la cipolla e farla soffriggere in 4 cucchiai di olio per 15 minuti circa a fuoco basso (non deve imbiondire), se necessario bagnare con del brodo. Aggiungere le patate, salare e pepare e farle insaporire per una decina di minuti, se dovessero risultare troppo asciutte bagnarle con il brodo. Le patate in tecia sono pronte quando cominciano a fare una crosticina sul fondo. 

Capuzi (crauti) e non solo

1 Kg di cappucci acidi ( crauti)
2 spicchi d’aglio
2 costine di maiale affumicato (oppure l’equivalente in salsicce o pancetta affumicata)
2 cucchiai di farina, strutto o olio extravergine
sale e pepe

Si tratta di una ricetta che, di base, può considerarsi comune alle gastronomie triestina, slovena, austriaca e tedesca. L’unica controindicazione che ho trovato è stata di preferire la birra al vino.

Mettere i capuzi in un tegame, coperti a filo di acqua fredda, e farli sobbollire per una mezzora, avendo cura di ricambiare l’acqua dopo il primo bollore se dovessero risultare troppo acidi. Di seguito fare colorire la farina nello strutto (o olio ) ben caldo e dorare gli spicchi d’aglio, quindi unire i capuzi con la loro acqua, salate e pepate. Continuare con la cottura per un paio d’ore, a tegame coperto e fiamma bassissima, più o meno a metà cottura, aggiungere il maiale affumicato.

I capuzi si servono come contorno a ogni tipo di carne di maiale affumicata – salsicce specialmente – meglio se accanto a delle patate in tecia

 Jota (minestra di fagioli, crauti e patate)

Ingredienti (dosi per 4 persone):

500 g di crauti acidi (preferibilmente sfusi)
200g di fagioli (metterli a bagno in acqua freddadalla sera prima)
4 patate
2 foglie di alloro
cumino
4 spicchi di aglio
sale
pepe
olio
farina

In una pentola far scaldare l’olio e far rosolare 2 spicchi di aglio schiacciati fino a portarli a doratura. Quindi eliminare l’aglio. Aggiungere i crauti e coprirli a raso con acqua. Aggiungere un pizzico di cumino, sale e pepe. Far consumare a fuoco lento per circa 1/2 ora.
In un’altra pentola cucinare i fagioli, lavati e scolati, con il brodo vegetale e 2 foglie di alloro, a fuoco lento per 1 ora e 15 minuti.
Tagliare le patate a pezzetti, aggiungerle al brodo e fagioli, e proseguire la cottura per 15 minuti.
Togliere dal fuoco e passare fagioli e patate fino ad ottenere una purea omogenea.
Aggiungere la purea così ottenuta ai crauti preparati in precedenza.
A parte, in un piccolo pentolino, soffriggere i rimanenti spicchi di aglio schiacciati in 1 – 2 cucchiai di olio. Eliminarli una volta dorati.
Stemperare nell’olio la farina mescolando attentamente per evitare la formazione di grumi.
A tostatura avvenuta aggiungere la farina alla minestra.
Aggiungere di sale e pepe e volendo si può convertirlo a piatto unico aggiungendo una manciata di capuzi e un pezzetto di costina

Frico (e le sue varianti!)

 1- Frico con patate 

200 g di patate
200 g di formaggio stagionato 
Patate e formaggio si prendono in parti uguali

Come formaggio vanno bene sia il grana che il Montasio stagionato, a seconda dei gusti. Si soffrigge cipolla, che non deve prender troppo colore e si buttano sopra le patate crude a pezzetti, che devono disfarsi, anche schiacciandole con una forchetta, per far prima si possono bollire un po’, ma non è la ricetta vera. Quando è tutto morbido, si aggiunge il formaggio e si cucina il tortino rovesciandolo quando un alto ha preso colore.
Va bene abbinato a polenta o radicchio e fagioli

2 – Frico con patate 

6 patate medie
400 gr. formaggio Montasio de 5-6 mesi
sale.

Pelare le patate e tagliarle a fettine sottilissime con l’apposito attrezzo, farle cuocere lentamente con un po’ d’acqua lella tecia e quando sono tenere aggiungere sale e il formaggio tagliato a tocchetti e con la paletta di legno incorporarlo alle patate. Mescolare bene e rigirare come una frittata.

3 – Frico senza patate:

Si può fare il frico friabile grattuggiando 2 tipi di formaggio stagionato e poi cuocerli una manciata alla volta nella padelle antiaderente da ambo i lati. Oppure grattuggiarlo direttamente nell’olio bollente e tirarlo fuori velocemente col mestolo forato. In questo caso viene bello spugnoso nel 1° esempio buono e croccante.

risi e bisi

 

1 litro di brodo
60 g di burro
1 cipolla
 4 cucchiai di olio
50 g di Pancetta
4 cucchiai Parmigiano Reggiano 
pepe
1 kg Piselli (se non li trovate, provate nel reparto surgelati :-)
un manciata di prezzemolo
200 g di riso vialone

Preparate un leggero brodo di dado e lasciatelo a raffreddare.
Nel frattempo sgranate i piselli, lavate i baccelli ed immergeteli nel brodo freddo, quindi fateli bollire per circa 60 minuti a fuoco moderato.
Terminata la cottura, filtrate il brodo e passate i baccelli al setaccio; raccogliete quindi la purea che avete ottenuto e rimettetela nel brodo filtrato.
A questo punto fate sciogliere in una pentola metà del burro insieme all’olio e fatevi rosolare la cipolla finemente tritata insieme alla pancetta tritata ed al prezzemolo, anch’esso tritato. Aggiungete quindi i piselli e fateli insaporire versando due mestoli di brodo e mescolando per almeno 5 minuti.
Versate quindi il resto del brodo nella pentola, regolate di sale e di pepe e portarlo ad ebollizione. Unite il riso e fatelo cuocere al dente mescolando spesso con un cucchiaio di legno. Ricordate di tenere a portata di mano dell’acqua calda nel caso il riso si asciugasse troppo.

Sardoni (alici) in savor

1 kg. di sardoni
1 cipolla
½ bicchiere d’aceto
Alloro, sale
Olio per friggere

Pulire i sardoni (togliere la testa e le interiora), lavarli, scolarli e passarli nella farina, quindi friggerli in abbondante olio. Tritare la cipolla e soffriggerla nell’olio usato per la frittura. Appena la cipolla sarà tenera, aggiungere l’aceto. In una terrina mettere uno strato di cipolla ed uno di sardoni fino a finire i due ingredienti (l’ultimo sarà di cipolla).
Può rimanere in frigo anche per 3 o 4 giorni, si dice che più si riposa, meglio è!

 Cevapcici (Ćevapčići)

500g macinata di vitello (o mista 50% maiale) 
30g lardo (non serve se usate carne di maiale)
2 cucchiai Paprika Dolce
1 cipolla piccola
1 spicchio di Aglio
Cumino e/o Maggiorana
un dito di vino
Sale
Pepe

Tritare molto finemente la cipolla. Esiste una ricetta macedone in cui si suggerisce di cuocere la cipolla tritata in padella con l’aglio ed un filo d’olio, provate! Qua l’ho fatta come ho letto in uno dei mille articoli trovati, con  la cipolla usata cruda, perciò non esagerate con le dosi e tagliatela finissima.  Il lardo va aggiunto esclusivamente se fate Cevapcici con la sola carne di manzo, probabilemnte per inspessire il gusto finale.
Mettere la carne in una ciotola capiente, aggiungete l’aglio tritato finemente ed il sale. Unire anche la cipolla ed il lardo tritati. Mescolare bene usando le mani, cercando di ottenere una consistenza uniforme. Aprire per bene la carne nella ciotola ed aggiungete il pepe  e due cucchiai di paprica dolce. Mescolare di nuovo per amalgamare il tutto aggiungendo un dito di vino bianco, non troppo altrimenti si ammorbidisce troppo. Formare delle polpette dalla forma stetta ed allungata (circa 7-8 centimetrie largo 2). Cuocendo si ritirerà diventando più corto e tozzo. Adagiare tutti i Cevapcici su un ripiano o su un piatto, coprire e mettete in frigo più o meno per un’oretta. Far riposare la carne è essenziale per farle assorbire gli aromi e, come ho imparato sul blog di Bressanini, per permettere al vino e agli zuccheri della cipolla di preparare il terreno per la reazione di Maillard che avverrà in padella creando quel buon gusto di “rosolato” :)  Dopo il riposo si può procedere alla cottura su griglia o nella vostra padella preferita per fare la carne ai ferri ed adagiarvi sopra i vostri fantastici Cevapcici. Prima di rigirarli aspettare che siano ben cotti da almeno un lato altrimenti potrebbe esserci il rischio di sbriciolamento. A fine cottura irrorateli con un po’ di birra o vino stando attenti a non esagerare sennò si lessano. 

 Apfelstrudel (Strucolo ( Struccolo) de pomi )

 

(prima versione)

Strudel di mele ( tradizionale, con la pasta tirata)

Per la pasta:
250 gr di farina,
un uovo,
un pizzico di sale,
due cucchiai d’olio e mezzo bicchiere d’acqua.

Per il ripieno:
2 kg di mele di buona qualità,
150 gr di pangrattato,
150 gr di burro,
80-100 gr di zucchero, cannella scorza di limone
50 gr di uvetta,
50 gr di pinoli  
100 gr di burro liquefatto per pennellare la sfoglia .

Setacciare la farina, fare la fontana e aggiungere l’uovo, il sale e l’olio, impastando ed aggiungendo acqua fino a raggiungere la “giusta” consistenza. La pasta va lavorata a mano a lungo, perchè diventa liscia ed elastica. Fare una palla, coprirla con un velo d’olio e lasciatela riposare. Nel frattempo preparate il ripieno: sbucciate e togliete il torsolo alle mele , tagliatele a fettine; rosolate il pangrattato nel burro. Stendete la pasta dapprima col mattarello su un telo infarinato e poi tirandola dal di sotto con le mani, finché non sarà sottile, quasi trasparente, ma attenzione che non ri rompa! Spennellarla con una parte del burro liquefatto e distribuite su circa un terzo della superficie il ripieno. Arrotolarla con l’aiuto del telo, chiudendola bene, spennellarla con il resto del burro fuso e infornarla in forno caldo 220° per mezzora. Una volta sfornata, lascairla intiedipide e ricoprirla con zucchero a velo.

 Versione semplice e poco calorifica dell’impasto

150 gr di farina bianca,
30 grammidi burro ,
1 uovo intero e tre cucchiai d’acqua.

impastare col robot da cucina fino a che si forma una palla e lasciar riposare 30 minuti sotto una scodella tepida. Stenderla finissima e riempire con ripieno

 

bentrovati a tutti!

 Qua potrete trovare molte altre ricette triestine

 

 

 

293 pensieri riguardo “T come Trieste”

  1. La tua scomparsa mi aveva già fatto decretare la morte del genere “foodblog”. Vedere che hai “rotto il lungo digiuno” (è proprio il caso di usare questa espressione) con questi meravigliosi piatti è una notizia che non può che far piacere.
    Bentrovata

  2. Gììììììììì!!
    Come sono contenta che sei “riapparsa”!!
    Ringrazio la nostra mitica Aiù di aver contribuito a questa cosa!
    Hai presentato una stupenda carrellata di ricette…
    vado in cucina preparati qualcosa!!
    Baciussss

  3. C’avrei giurato che avresti onorato l’impegno preso nel migliore dei modi ma con questa carrellata di delicatezze hai superato te stessa!
    Grande accoglienza per questa terra di confine, riordino le idee per portarti un vassoio degno del tuo buffet :-)
    Un abbraccione e a prestissimo! :-)

  4. ma ciao, piacere di conoscerti…che post ricco di gastronomia triestina… vedo che ti sei risvegliata alla grande…chissà prima quando eri “a pieno ritmo”,
    un bacione grande e a presto! elena

  5. ringrazio moltissimo tutti partecipanti, appena ho la disponibilità della linea sceglierò la foto per la copertina della raccolta di Trieste, adesso vado golosamente a sbirciare tutte vostre lecornie, ancora grazissime!!!

  6. aaargh hai messo il frico come ricetta triestina, la rivalità triestina verso i friulani è nota come quella di Capuleti e Montecchi e il frico è tipicamente friulano, vuoi dare la stura ad una faida?;P
    NB io triestina ho sposato un friulano

      1. Solo quello è sbagliato, solo quello, tutto il resto è ok, considerato che non sei mai stata a Trieste direi che hai svolto il compito quasi alla perfezione eh eh eh.

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