…All’ Antica Osteria di Vico Palla, nel Porto Antico di Genova, si assaggiano i piatti della nonna di cui parlava Gilberto Govi nelle sue commedie, rivisti con l’estro e la creatività di Maurizio Capurro, giovane giramondo con la passione della cucina e tanta esperienza alle spalle…. non aspettatevi tovaglie in fiandra e cristalli di bohemia, al loro posto troverete una deliziosa tovaglietta in carta con su stampata la poesiola che vi riporto in coda al post, tutta dedicata allo stoccafisso, visto che l’ho appena messo in musica mi pareva il minimo.
Una sera mi trovavo lì a cena con un gruppo di amici, quando Maurizio Capurro venne a “decantare” il menù, feci un commento sul merluzzo prima di ordinare il branda cujun (stoccafiso mantecato con patate, olive, uova e pinoli che un tempo veniva preparato nel mortaio tenuto fermo tra le gambe …… da lì nome). Andrea, saltò su dicendo che il merluzzo, lo stoccafisso e il baccalà non erano lo stesso pesce. Molto pazientemente Maurizio si mise a spiegare che il merluzzo, vero principe della tavola, “si presenta come baccalà quando è conservato sotto sale o come stoccafisso se essiccato all’aria”. Grande risata generale, ma la querelle tra la sicumera di Andrea e le mie certezze restava sospesa, finché incappai nella magistrale opera di Mark Kurlansky, giornalista e saggista americano, che ha dedicato a questo argomento un intero libro dal titolo: Merluzzo – Storia del pesce che ha cambiato il mondo (Mondadori), un vero e proprio viaggio alla scoperta di questo pesce e di come abbia determinato importanti fatti storici dai tempi dei Vichinghi ad oggi. Bene. Per la rivincita ho invitato a casa Andrea e lo stesso gruppo di amici preparando una cena a base del mitico pesce iniziando con il branda cujun. Nel frattempo anche il dottore si era preparato e con aria saccente ( che alle medie non aveva ancora sviluppato) ci raccontò che la confusione traeva origine dal fatto che nel Mediterraneo il merluzzo non esiste e per secoli non è stato possibile importarlo fresco, ma solo lavorato. “Da oltre un millennio viene pescato nei mari del Nord e di fronte alla costa orientale dell’America settentrionale da vari popoli – tra cui i Baschi – che sapevano dove trovarlo già prima dei viaggi di Colombo. Queste genti chiamavano il merluzzo con nomi diversi legati in gran parte ai processi di conservazione (ad esempio: stoccafisso dall’olandese stok, il bastone dove venivano legati a due a due i pesci per la coda e appesi ad essiccare, come ancora si fa in Islanda) “. Da quel momento mi autonominai paladina del merluzzo e quando mi chiedono un piatto faccio spesso il branda cujun che mi ha insegnato Maurizio.
ma ora veniamo alla poesiola dialettale
O l’è lungo, o l’è düo,o l’è tosto,o l’è bön se piggiöu in quello postos’o l’è appena-a sciörtio d’in te balle(ma attenziön ch’ö no l’agge e farfalle).
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e a ghe dïva: -ti o lasci ancön drento?-e mâe poâe: -Mi saieiva contento,ma n’oriâe ch’o m’andesse in maloa,te ghe-o lascio, ma solo pe’n’oua.
E mâa seû? Me sövven comme vei,no gh’ea verso de fäghelöu piaxei,a no-o pôeiva manco töccâ: -Son segûa che a mi o me fà mâ!
Finn-a quande a s’è feta o galante(ûn portuale lè asci, carenante)ch’o l’aveiva bello grosso e gûstosoe o ghe l’ha regalou d’arescôso.
E chissa, forse pe-a qualitâedifferente da quella d’o poâe,o magara pe o semplice fâetoch’o l’ea quello che lè o gh’aiva dâeto,
o soltanto pe fâlo contento …fâeto stà che da quello momentoa figgeûa a s’è decisa a assazzâlo, continuando poi sempre a piggialo!
Anche mi da piccin me credeivoch’o dovesse fa mâ e no ne voeivo,ma’na votta ch’aveivo dovüo assazzane ûn tocchetto ho vosciûo…
Li pe li o m’ha dâeto disgusto,poi però gh’o sentîo ûn certo gûstoe da alôa devo dî ch’ö gradiscio…
(a pröpoxito, o l’è o STOCCHEFISCIO!)
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